SKINIPEDIA - Skin Encyclopedia: Teenagers Acne Part 3
Acne in Teenagers (Part 3)
Sebum Control
Many ingredients are claimed to reduce sebaceous gland activity and help acne. Seborilys from Greentech has sebo-regulator properties that are associated with the anti-androgenic activity of macrocyclic tannins contained in Epilobium angustifolium. This effect is reinforced by the astringent activity of Terminalia chebula and the cleaning effect of zinc obtained from a culture of microalgae. The active ingredients are supplied in liposome form to increase absorption into the skin. Also from Greentech and claimed to reduce production of sebum are Phytelene Complexes EGX 247 BG based on extracts of burdock, sage, lemon, watercress, ivy and soapwort and Phytelene Complexes EGX 252 BG based on extracts of burdock, lemon, hops, St John’s Wort, sage, marigold and soapwort.
According to Greentech, burdock has antiseptic properties towards staphylococcus and hops have antiseptic properties while the essential oils of sage and St John’s Wort help absorption of all the active ingredients and have anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties. Lemon is antiseptic and healing and marigold soothes and heals skin irritations and has anti-allergenic properties. Saponosides of soapwort have mild detergent properties and help to clean skin impurities.
Lucas Meyer suggests a blend trade named Matipure comprising phospholipids, magnesium aluminium silicate, black cumin seed oil and pumpkin seed oil, which combines high adsorption of sebum with a mattifying effect. Lucas Meyer also supplies Linumine [INCI: Linum usitatissimum (Linseed) seed extract] for the treatment of oily skin and to minimise pores and blackheads. Lignans are a group of polyphenolic compounds containing a 2.3-dibenzylbutane skeleton and linseed provides 75-200 times more plant lignans than any other source. The main lignan in linseed is secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, which plays a major role in the sebum rate decrease by inhibiting the activity of 5-Alpha reductase.
From Jan Dekker comes Liquorice Extract P-U, a water soluble extract from Glycyrrhiza inflata root that includes the flavonoid licochalcone A, which has antimicrobial activity against gram positive bacteria, is an antioxidant and free radical scavenger and inhibits 5?-reductase activity. Data and photographic evidence provided by Jan Dekker shows significant reduction in spots and lesions in females suffering from acne when treated with Liquorice Extract P-U for a period of four weeks.
Expanscience Laboratories produce 5-Alpha Avocuta via a bio-enzyme process that results in trans-esterification of the methyl esters of avocado oil to butyl esters, which are shown to have a significant effect on reducing 5?-reductase activity. Extensive data available from Expanscience illustrates the effectiveness of this ingredient in reducing sebum production and how this results in a clearer skin, free from acne-type lesions. Seborami from Alban Muller contains extracts from burdock and erysimum that have high sulphur content; the AHAs, citric and glycolic acid and zinc pidolate, the zinc salt of 2-pyrolidone 2 carboxylic acid. The AHAs result in mild exfoliation of the epidermis and the extracts and zinc salt have a mild antimicrobial action that inhibits contamination of the hair follicles by Propionibacterium acnes.
Rahn markets Seboclear, a mixture of Plantago lanceolata leaf extract, Berberis aquifolium extract and sodium salicylate in aqueous-alcoholic solution. Described as a triple-active complex, which has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and keratolytic effects, it may be added to mild cleansers, incorporated in daily use skin care foams and is suggested as an active ingredient for oil-free creams and gels for care of acne-prone skin. It is claimed that the Plantago lanceolata content prevents subsequent inflammation occurrences of the skin, the Berberis aquifolium has an antibacterial effect and the salicylic acid has a keratolytic effect and prevents blockages of the sebaceous gland. Seboclear is said to demonstrably reduce the number of comedones and blackheads without signs of irritation.
Salicylic acid is a well established keratolytic agent found in numerous products for acne-prone skin. It has good exfoliating and moisturising activity and can penetrate into the pores, thus helping in the removal of blackheads. Salicylic acid can be used in combating acne, wrinkles and cutaneous ageing. In its exfoliating role, it facilitates the penetration of other actives by thinning the skin, thus maximising their efficacy. It is a sebum regulator and a potential anti-inflammatory agent. Chemyunion has encapsulated salicylic acid in cyclodextrin and claims that this improves its dispersion on the skin and its penetrative powers into the pores. Its release from the cyclodextrin capsules is slow and controlled and this avoids unnecessary overloads of the active and it can decrease eventual irritation or skin sensitising.
Salicylic acid is present in the bark of the willow, Salix alba, and is the source of ABS White Willow Bark Extract Powder marketed by Active Concepts. It is an off-white, water soluble, impalpable powder with a standardised activity greater than 50% salicylic acid. It can be readily incorporated into aqueous and anhydrous systems. The black willow, Salix Nigra, is the source of the salicins present in liposomal form in Brookosome Willow Bark from Arch Personal Care Products. Arch maintains that entrapment of the willow active in a liposomal delivery system helps to enhance its compatibility with skin and to be capable of delivering the active deep into the stratum corneum. Salicins work well on problem skin to control the skin’s natural flora, often a cause of mild irritation, and the phospholipid liposome delivers extra moisture to the skin, helping to overcome the drying effect often associated with the use of salicins. Tannins, which are also present, have been shown to have an antioxidant effect, enabling them to capture highly reactive free radicals and to minimise lipid peroxidation in the cell membranes, hence the extract will contribute a calming and soothing effect to skin.
Ajidew ZN-100 [INCI: Zinc PCA] from Ajinomoto is a dual action material. In solution the zinc reacts with short chain fatty acids and thus reduces the oily appearance of sebum and the PCA is pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, which is a humectant associated with the natural moisturising factor of the skin. Zinc PCA has mild antimicrobial properties and also inhibits 5?-reductase activity and it also inhibits the production of activator protein-1, which plays a part in reducing collagen production in older skin. Also of Japanese origin, Rose Fruit Extract BG-01 [INCI: Rosa multiflora fruit extract] from Maruzen Pharmaceuticals has an astringent effect and minimises the size of the pores, thus reducing their ability to secrete excessive quantities of sebum. The skin surrounding an enlarged pore is covered with incomplete keratinised cells and is rough and dry. It is important to moisturise skin around pores to make enlarged pores soft and smooth and less visible, which rose fruit extract is claimed to do.
Excessive sebum makes the skin oily and shiny but make-up can contribute to blocked pores and exacerbate the problem. Unfortunately teenage girls are at the age when they most want to experiment with make-up so using products that include sebum regulators and powders that absorb oil is a sensible course of action. Modified corn starches from National Starch are available in several grades: Dry-Flo AF is a hydrophobically modified natural polymer, which imparts a smooth, velvety feel in a variety of topical personal care and cosmetic products such as powders and make-up, and it mitigates the unpleasant, heavy, oily feel of the oils, esters and waxes often used in these formulations. Dry-Flo PC [INCI: Aluminium starch octenylsuccinate], is a modified starch in the form of a dry powder that strongly absorbs water and oils and improves non-aqueous systems by reducing tack and greasiness.
Poly-Pore E500 is an allyl methacrylate crosspolymer from Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions that is supplied as an absorbent free flowing powder recommended for use in facial masks, loose and pressed powders and liquid make-up to provide sebum control and reduce irritation. Bambusa arundinacea stem extract is a white powder from Greentech obtained from a bamboo that has deposits of silica in the cell walls of the stem and is offered as an alternative to mineral powders. It has a very high oil absorption capacity due to its high porosity and applications include loose or compact powders, eye shadows, blush, liquid make-up and lipsticks.
Toshiki Pigment Co suggests LDR Rose Shape Powder [INCI: Calcium carbonate], which has high oil absorption properties. This modified form of calcium carbonate has a relatively small surface area with large interstitial gaps and is capable of absorbing more than 100ml of oil per 100g of powder. The supplier suggests that by absorbing the principal oils in sebum it is prevented from forming comedones. Finally, under the trade name Active Powder Purity LS 9695, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques promotes a mixture of actives including niacinamide, yeast extract, Aesculus hippocastanum (horse chestnut) seed extract, algae extract, ammonium glycyrrhizate, panthenol, zinc gluconate, caffeine and biotin. It was developed to reduce excess of sebaceous secretion via inhibition of the 5?-reductase enzyme and is suggested for all types of make-up formulations.
... And finally, most teenagers grow out of the acne years by their early 20s if not before.
Acne in Teenagers article brought to you by COSMETIC BUSINESS of HPCI Media Ltd.
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